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September 29, 2005

Pattern Modification Woes

Pattern modification is so not my thing. My thing is more like pattern-following. I have unending respect for the wisdom and intentions of the pattern designer. They know what they are doing. All I want is a copy of their sweater. The numbers in the pattern might as well be set in stone. and yet here I am, in pattern modifcation limbo.

LL_notes.jpg

The yarn I want to use for the Lace Leaf Pullover does not match the pattern gauge. The pattern calls for 10 stitches per 4", but I am getting a good 12 stitches per 4". oh dear. Luckily, Colleen once emailed me the secret to changing any pattern to your desired gauge. ah ha. And it totally works! Just multiply the number given in the pattern by a gauge adjustment ratio (your gauge/pattern gauge). Its almost like following the pattern, just with a calculator! This I can handle.

So I reworked the smallest pattern size(38") to the new gauge on pieces of scrap paper and backs of envelopes. The numbers all seemed to line up. I even washed the gauge swatch. 3 stitches per inch and holding.

LL_model.jpg

But then I woke up this morning and wondered, "Do I really want a 38 inch sweater? That seems large. Should I go down to 36 inches...?" Since my gauge is tighter, less ease is needed, right? I checked my current sweaters... the largest of them is 36", and its loose. A 38" sweater might be really really comfortable, or it might spend lots of time in the bottom dresser drawer.

FYI, I've never been a bigger-is-cozier type person in regard to sweaters... I am more a beleiver in smaller-is-cuter. I come from the school of loose, long, comfortable pants and small, fitted shirts.

But maybe the spirit of the Lace Leaf Pullover intends for an oversized look. Maybe I could change my ways. Maybe I'll go with the 38". Or maybe I should just give it up and knit this sweater instead.

Comments (26)

Diana,

I've seen the Lace Leaf pullover made more fitted (about 2" ease) and it looks really nice. Maybe the photographed ginormous because the model is a crack addict. I'd check the measurements for the sleeves also. Good luck!

i like the leave sweater better!! please knit this one! maybe you can just knit with a tighter gauge (12/4") and knit the smallest size, it'll come out smaller! i'm never good with gauge, always just pick a yarn and knit.

beth:

Yes I agree with Christina above, she could be a best friend to Kate Moss! I like this sweater better than the other one! Very cute!

caitlyn:

The denim chunky pullover is nice, but the leaf lace sweater is more unique. I think it would look better if it was slightly more fitted, so I vote for knitting it smaller.
Could you explain more about Colleen’s secret to changing a pattern to a desired gauge? Sorry, I don’t quite get it.

I must say that I really like the leaf sweater a lot better! It is one of those sweaters that is totally unique and not something you are going to run into at most stores. The other one is cute, but something we all have seen a hundred times.

I would just work to adjust the pattern to be more fitted. You already have a tighter guages at 12/4" and with a few more decreases you should be great!

My vote is definitely for the lace leaf sweater. 38" for the small definitely seems way to big. I say for for making a smaller version. You'll be happier. Who would you want to knit a cute sweater for the bottom dresser drawer or the back of the closet?

I really really like the Teva Durham sweater, but unless you are ready to do a bunch of modifications, it looks like a sweater that is going to fit big and loose.

It may not be the right sweater for you, if you don't like that kind of thing. Many is the time I purchased or made something with the idea that it would be different this time! Even though I never wear this kind of thing, I will this time! Need I tell you how this always ends?

I'd definitely think it over, because after the work of doing it, you wouldn't want it to just sit in a drawer.

just knit it smaller girl. it's too big anyway. come on, i wanna see you knit this up so i can be a copycat too. i've had reservations about bulky sweaters for the longest time, so if you work this out and it looks good, i'll be the next to jump in. go teva! oh.. and go diana! i expect to see this sweater next week. just kidding! and do elaborate the modification method colleen sent you. inquiring minds want to know.

Stephanie:

I agree with the majority - it needs to be knit smaller anyway and you're part way there with your tighter gauge. Go for it.

Go for the leafy sweater!

Adjusting the size of the pattern is as easy as adjusting for gauge. You do remember that you might also have to adjust increases/decreases with the new gauge, right? Just let me know if I can be of assistance....

I totally understand your pattern modifications woes. It's good to do it at least once, but I think it can be a pain. You may want to reconsider and go with the smaller size, since that's the size you regularly wear. You might have to recalculate, but you'll be happier in the long run with a sweater that you'll actually wear.

One more thing: is that your swatch in the photo? Be honest: is it? Because, if it is, I would encourage you strongly to knit and wash a proper, 4x4 inch (or 6x6--better) swatch. If you're doing the mental gymnastics that it takes to adjust your pattern, do the little bit of extra work to take a proper gauge reading.

Okay, I'm with Colleen on the bigger and better swatch, if that is indeed the swatch you are using for your gauge. Especially if you are going to do some calculations.

I think you should knit the lace leaf sweater, but I too think it needs to be much, much smaller. You'll lose your figure in that sweater and you run to much to not show off your figure. I've also wanted to knit this sweater, but kept being put off by the fear of my ugly kitchener in the middle. I've read through the pattern a lot and think it wouldn't be too difficult to downsize and add waist shaping. You can totally do it, and if you need help, I'm also happy to assist. Although Colleen has way more experience at this than I do.

adele:

I would definately knit it smaller. Even oversized, I think the 38 would be too big on you. Don't waste your precious time. :)

jody:

i would go for a smaller size too. if 36" is the biggest of your sweaters it sounds like you'll still have some ease with that size anyway. plus i agree -- since you gauge is a bit tighter you won't need it as big to get the same amount of space inside the sweater.

as for the gauge swatch...well that's all i knit when swatching UNLESS the row gauge is critical. usually i can test my row gauge out after a couple inches of knitting and make adjustments (if necessary). my gauge problems usually arise because i picked up the wrong needle or something silly like that...not because i didn't do a big honkin gauge swatch.

that's my 2 cents. colleen and purly both give excellent advice too...i think each knitter has to do what's right for herself.

ps - if you need any more calculation help don't hesitate to ask!

The lace leaf sweater is way much cooler, IMO. For the swatch, I think I usually do a few more rows than you, but I seldom have the patience to do a 4"x4", not to mention 6"x6".
It just amazes me that how much mental activities are going on in a knitter's brain. ;)

wow this post is great. i am like you...i pick a pattern, check my gauge and start knitting. i have not yet had the courage to adjust a pattern because of my gauge. in fact there is pattern sitting in my to-do pile for this very reason. if you and collen don't mind sharing i would be thrilled to know any tricks and secrets. currently - adjusting my gauge is just one big mental blockage that i dont know how to push through.

Im with Colleen and Purly, stick with the Teva sweater (if you really like it), knit a larger swatch, and knit a smaller sweater. Ive been wanting to knit this sweater but the whole bulky thing may not be right for me. You just have to decide what you want.

But may I ask why you are starting a new project when you aren't done yet with your current ones or your upcoming list? ; P

My vote, stick with the Lace Leaf Sweater. That pattern has always intrigued me. Infact I dreamt of it one night. I need to knit it up for myself. And I would love to see how yours works out.

I love both sweaters! The leaf motif one is so interesting, but I have a thing for split neck sweaters like the one at Patternworks. Hmm. Tough decisions, eh?

There is oversize that fits, and oversize that looks like you raided your man's closet. I say size down. That Leaf sweater is just too pretty. I feel your pain on the gauge thing. Same reason my corset pullover is sitting abandoned in the closet. Gotta overcome the fear ;-)

just be careful with the fit --- a chunky yarn gauge of 3 sts/inch does beckon a looser fit --- who wants all that bulk bunched under their arms?

kris:

go for the lace leaf! or hell, knit'em both ;-)

i love the lace leaf sweater and have been seriously considering making it myself, but i've also had some sizing issues. i think it needs more ease than thinner sweaters, though, so if you get an inch or two of ease with 36' then go for that.

i just remembered, rachel (http://flower.typepad.com/journal/) is making this sweater with sara(TLW), you can check out their blog.

S:

its such a good looking sweater! if too big doesnt work for you, well, it works for me....

You have just summarised perfectly why I don't mess with sweater gauge. I did once and then, too, couldn't work out the width that I wanted. Although it looks like you have a good understanding of what needs to be done - way better than mine. Oh and then, there's the fact that I have so many sweaters to knit that there's quite enough to keep me busy! Good luck with it, I really love that pattern.

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