My next project is in the style of The Hourglass sweater (original from ), but different. I am in the initial design stages of modeling a new garment after this much-loved one:

Its a fine-gauge knit top from Banana Republic which I bought a few seasons ago. I wear it to important meetings, or on first dates. It fits unbeleivably well. Let's see if I can knit its long-lost twin.

The yarn is Lime #77 Noro Cash Iroha, destined to look quite nice under my new puffy black vest.

The plan is for an all-stockinette sweater, worked in the round. Clean edges, maybe with attached i-cord to prevent rolling, or maybe I'll let it roll up.

So far, I have a swatch.

A whole lot of stockinette is going on over here this week.

Figuring out a pattern for Hourglass v2.0 was an unsteady process that involved measuring myself and my storebought sweaters multiple times, but I think I've got it. Its going to be a negatively-eased garment, approximately 2 inches smaller than me. Seriously, everything I own is at least this small, so why not handknits? Plus, Purly says it will work, and Purly thinks about these things, so I am going with it.

Also, Cash Iroha grows and stretches over time. Though I did take this into account. So far, I've got part of the body and sleeve.

The sleeve comes with me onto the subway. I wonder if any of the commuters will notice when I wear the finished sweater...

Hourglass v2.0 is a misleading name.. this sweater is actually quite different from the Hourglass sweater in . Hourglass v2.0 is constructed in-the-round with Cash Iroha, but the similarities end there.

My goals for Hourglass v2.0:

1. Design from scratch to gain an understanding of sweater design in general. Use existing BR sweater and my own measurements as a template for sizing.

2. Work entirely in the round, from bottom up. Distribute yoke decreases around neck (not raglan decreases).

3. Consult Elizabeth Zimmerman's percentage sweater directions(from Knitting Without Tears). Consult the original Hourglass pattern, but only for comparison purposes.

4. Use short rows to shape the front neckline lower than the back.

5. Wear it when its done. daily.

Should be easy enough, right?

The two sleeves are done.

They are straight sleeves, with minimal shaping and a wide wrist.

I've been using a provisional cast-on because I am not entirely sure about the edge treatment. A slightly rolling edge may be the best match.

A couple nights ago, I was happily not running, and instead working on Hourglass v2.0. I had just attached the sleeves and formulated a plan for the yoke. All was good.

Then I counted the stitches. I should disclose here that I hadn't counted the stitches in quite some time. Probably since the initial cast on. This is not a recommended practice. Its good to count stitches. Count early, count often.

The bad news: There were 69 stitches for one side, and 61 for the other. The origin of this disparity is a mystery.

The good news: The sleeves were doing fine at 46 stitches apiece, and the front+back total was 130 stitches, as it should be.

As I am fortunately not a hunchback and unfortunately not large-chested, there was no need for extra stitches on either the back or front of the sweater. Only one thing could be done.

The solution was quite simple.. I just moved the location of the sleeves two stitches back on each side. The side increases and decreases will now be located just a little bit more towards the back of the sweater. I can't imagine this will be noticable or have any implications for the fit.

Hourglass is now almost ready for the first yoke decrease, which occurs 2 inches after the sleeve attachment. Of course, I've already woven the underarms.

Cash Iroha is a tricky yarn. Its thick, then its thin, then thick again. Maybe its supposed to resemble handspun. Whatever the reason, it does not make a great edging. I know, because I tried a number of them..

I looked for an edge treatment that could be applied uniformly to all edges of this nearly-finished sweater: sleeves, neckline, and bottom hems. Since I started with the provisional cast on, there are live stitches to work with.

My original thought was to let the edges roll. However, I wasn't thrilled with how this looked at the neckline, and what with the marathon over and all, I had time to take on the find-an-edge challenge.

Applied 2-stitch i-cord.
I thought this might be most similar to a rolled edge, but cleaner. It did look really nice on the sleeve edges, but along the neckline, it looked strange. Not the one.

Kitchener 1x1 rib bind off.
This had strong potential to look very clean and even, but the thick/thin nature of the yarn yeilded a messy edge. I tried a couple different versions, binding off after 1, 2, or 3 rows.

Nope. The normally very clean Kitchener bind off looks ragged in Cash Iroha. Hourglass v2.0 should be more refined...

Kitchener 1x1 rib bind off in Cotton Glace.
Faced with 2 failed methods, inspiration struck in the form of Cotton Glace. What about using a different, smoother yarn for the kitchener bind off?

It turned out too loose-looking. Maybe a smaller needle size, or maybe...

Mini-hemmed edges in Cotton Glace.
Inspired by both Lori's contrast-trimmed hourglass and the mini-edges on the Union Square Market Pullover from the Fall 05 IK. I worked six rows in cotton glace, then folded it over and sewed down the live stitches. This could totally work.

Compared to the kitchener rib bind off, its no contest.

In an extreme stroke of yarn luck, the LYS had a shade of cotton glace that matches the green much more closely than the one pictured, which was just scraps leftover from my summer crochet bag. It is still a different shade, but in a subtle and intentional way.

Hourglass the second is getting there... Today I am on the search for some elastic to thread through the hems. Cross your fingers that it works!

The Specs:

Pattern based on: The yarn was always meant to be a variant on the Hourglass from . Add a dash of Elizabeth Zimmermann, one perfect model top from Banana Republic, and the yoke decreases from Ann Budd's Seamless Yoke sweater. Plus I made it to fit my measurements. Can we say that its my own pattern at this point?

Yarn: Noro Cash Iroha in lime (#77), about 9 skeins. Rowan Cotton Glace in Shoot, 1 skein (for edging).

Needles: Size 6 bamboo needles for gauge of 18.5 sts/4". Size 5 and 4 needles used for the edges.

Cash Iroha.
Its cool, but I probably wouldn't use this yarn again for a plain sweater. It kept doing this thick/thin thing, which I understand is all part of its character, but I'd prefer a more even yarn. For example, around the neckline, it got thin for long stretches, which made the yoke decreases more visible.

The sleeves got about 2-3" longer after washing/blocking. The sweater body probably got longer too, but I didn't notice it in particular. Cash Iroha does have wonderful post-blocking drape. I have to give it that.

Making up the pattern.
Totally the way to go. I felt much more invested in this sweater than other projects because I made it to fit. I knew that I had the ability to make it work, and it was just a matter of effort. Plus the fit turned out *perfectly*.

Edges.
I threaded 1/4" flat elastic through the neck and bottom hems. Its not tight enough to be noticable, but hopefully will help those cotton edges keep their shape.

Overall, its a super sucessful sweater. I am really happy with how it turned out.

Updated to add:
Short Row Neck Shaping.
This was so easy to do that I forgot to mention it! By following the instructions in The Knitter's Handy Book of Sweater Patterns, I did two short rows for the back neck. This resulted in 4 extra rows of height for the back neck. I added them at the very end, right before switching to the Cotton Glace. Basically, this is done by working 2 (or more) short rows across the back neck, the second short row a bit narrower than the first. Then, one row knit all the way around, hiding the wraps.